Day 11 Arriving Newcastle

After an enjoyable 37 mile testing ride into Northerly winds we arrived in IJmuiden with plenty of time to spare for our 5pm ferry home.

The ride from Leiden should have been about 32 mls but even though Ive done it many times before I always take the scenic route through the dunes and beach area of the town and did at least three circuits (5 miles) before finding the correct exit from the maze of numbered cycle paths.

Richard had to let the train take the strain as far as Haarlem as he has injured his achilles. So at least I can only blame myself for getting lost at the end of the trip.

A quiet nights rest on the boat followed the "eat as much as you like" buffet. I wish I had more self control as we both ate more than we should have.

We should be docking in North Shields in about 30 minutes. Still out at sea at the moment but the weather looks cold, windy and wet. Can't see the mainland.

Day 10 last leg Leiden to IJmuiden

Last day of the trip following an enjoyable evening in Leiden, a really pretty Dutch city without the frantic feel of Amsterdam where the pavements are full.

We enjoyed a relaxing evening of football a beer or two and an Argentinian steak for dinner.

Today we have around 35 miles to the boat in dry but slightly overcast skies.

There will probably be no wifi from this point so thats likely to be it for today. Stats on the trip to follow on Monday.

Day 09 onwards to Groningen and Leiden

We enjoyed a short 21 hour stay on Schiermonnikoog a car free island, only delivery vans, electric buses and taxibuses are permitted.

Our lodgings were impressive, a 1750's Dutch manor house, very quirky. Our landlady Else was very helpful and a very keen cyclist herself having recently completed a circlular route of the Isselmeer, the inland lake trapped by the long dyke we cycled over on Monday. 

Our large room was in the loft space which meant it was very warm. 

The mosquitoes were a problem though and without sprays, I received a number of bites while Richard escaped scott free.

Leaving promptly after breakfast the ferry from Lauwersoog arrived absolutely crammed with more tourists to swell the island's economy while the ferry back to the mainland was very quiet. 

On reaching the mainland we had a very leisurely 20 mls ride to a small village called Winsum just north of Groningen so we could avoid getting lost in a big city.  

Thankfully the ticket machines now accept UK cards and we booked our bikes on board to Leiden.

Despite missing our connection, we werent unhappy as it gave us an hour to find something to eat. 

We are now continuing by train to our fave Dutch city, Leiden to watch the Champions League final with a promised Argentinian steak and a bottle of red.

Day 08 to Schiermonnikoog

We have had a really hard work out this morning. Our alarm went off at 7.40 as planned but it seemed to take forever for two people to shower,  pack, strip the beds (thats the down side of youth hostelling!) so we had to skip breakfast and check out at 8.50 with 11kms ahead of us into a North East wind to catch the 9.30 Ameland to the mainland at Holwert.

You are supposed to arrive with plenty time to spare but we had just 8 minutes despite a very respectable 14 mph all of the way which is all we could give in the wind.

We were both sweating buckets from a really good workout and now sitting on our ferry with a coffee we now we should easily catch the 12.30 from Lauwersoog to Schiermonnikoog.  Good job as the next one after that is 15.30 which would be a long dull wait.

We have really enjoyed Ameland. The sunset last night was a joy to watch.

Day 07 Tour of Ameland

Two nights here at the Stayokay meant we could use today as a sightseeing day and explore the beautiful island that is Ameland.

And we had great weather. The staff here gave us a recommended route, 18 kms (12 miles) from base camp here through the dunes perfectly traffic free just lots of other cyclists enjoying the fine weather. Plenty of places to stop off for coffee.

At the end of the path was a heritage site of special interest as the dunes were sandwiched between the North Sea and the Wadden Sea and a good viewing point on a high sand dune gave you the chance to view Holland in the distance, an uninhabited island called Engelsmans Island and in the far distance tomorrow's destination Schiermonnikoog ("Ski-Monaco" is how its pronounced here).

Returning through the island's four villages, we ate lunch at Buren, a tiny hamlet with a lovely choice of street cafes.

Onwards to Nes, the capital, and the weather just better. The village was very busy with tourists, many German, and we stopped for a cold drink and a chat with many.

Next onto Bollum which again was very pretty and we spoke to some french tourists from Paris who had caught the TGV to Amsterdam then a train to Leeuwarden and finally a shuttle bus to the boat.

Onwards to "home" village Hollum and a quick scouting mission to find a restaurant for this evening.  I was here three years ago when cycling huge daily  legs from Denmark but I couldn't remember much to help as all the eateries had closed before I got there!

So today we have cycled just 30 miles in hot sunshine. A lovely day on a lovely island.  Shortly a shower and out into the village for food.

Day 06 nearly completed

Writing from the ferry from Holwerd to tonight's destination Ameland, our cycling is almost done. Just 11km or 7mls to do on the island from landing at Nes to our digs at Hollum.

It hasn't rained in this part of Holland and the wind has been helping most part of the day.

The morning was taken up by a quick 10 mile dash to the other end of Vlieland and back with a quick look at Europe's widest beach and a coffee at the Posthuys.  Then to Oost Vlieland for the ferry trip to the mainland.

On arrival at Harlingen, the sun came out briefly and weakly but at least it wasnt cold nor raining.

We picked off the remaining 32 miles in a very respectable 2 hours which only meant hanging around the port for 90 mins for the next boat to Ameland.

Midweek, mid adventure means its a washing clothes night, but maybe time for a reward later in the evening.

Day 05 Terschelling

We had a lovely view from our room at Stayokay. Right across the Waddenzee.

Today was always going to be relaxed after a struggle on the Afsluijt dyke.

A short 20 mile circular route viewing the nature along the South shore of the island , returning through the one and only central road through five or six small villages.

At one we stopped to buy lunch at a well stocked deli counter and enjoyed bread, olives, fish and cheese but it was so cold sitting around that we had to divert back to stayokay to collect warm clothes.

The ferry trip to Vlieland was excellent. On time, easy boarding with bikes and superfast journey by catamaran although it frequently bounced on the waves we'd just ridden across the day before!

On arrival on Vlieland, a traffic free island except taxis, we found our digs and booked in for a meal nearby which was good value and kind service.

Tomorrow a short tour then a midday ferry back to the mainland and onwards to our next Island hop.

Day 04 Texel to Terschelling

Without doubt the hardest day I can remember on a bike. I know there have been longer mileage days which have hurt but todays 48 miles felt like 100+ in very difficult conditions.

Starting from Den Burg at 8.15 in rain, we reached the ferry port in good time for the 9am crossing to Den Helder. 25 mins later we were back in the rain with windspeed increasing for a while in our favour as we headed south east.

But then turning to north at Den Oever to take on the Afsluijt dyke, temperature was low and winds very strong into our faces.

But cycling at a reduced 10 mph we soon reached the midpoint with a chance for a coffee break but time was against us so we continued on to try to finish the dyke in one hit. Winds out at sea were now frenzied and a fish was dropped on the cycle path by a passing seabird.

When we reached the end of the dyke we were pleased but wet through and worse was to come as the storms got stronger with the last leg from Zurich to Harlingen proving very hard indeed.  Our speed dropped to 9mph then to 7 as the conditions took their toll as if trying to test us again before the safe sanctuary of our next ferry from Harlingen to Terschilling.

A warm ferry, dry socks and footwear and some hot soup and a tea and we were feeling better. Tonights stay is one mile only from the ferry and we look out over the Wadden as our clothes dry on the room radiator.

A very hard day done. Maybe an easy day tomorrow with a lie in!

Day 04 looks a washout

Monday's weather forecast is atrocious here with heavy rain forecast for all day.

We have a big ride tomorrow (80kms/50 miles again) as we leave Texel hopefully on the 9am ferry and reach the mainland at Den Helder. 

We will need all our waterproof clothing going to try to lock the weather out.

The route takes us to Den Oever then across the amazing Afsluijt dyke which should be quite a challenge in poor conditions.

On arriving at Harlingen we take the 15.00 ferry to the island of Terschelling.

We probably wont be able to use our phones in driving rain so this might be the only update for Monday.

Richard's back which is sometimes bad on bike rides is holding up well.

Day 03 On Texel

Recharged the acheing muscles with 8 hours sleep and woke up today Sunday to torrential rain. There is a soccer pitch straight opposite us here in Den Burg and as we had breakfast worried groundsmen were preparing the waterlogged pitch for a home game.

Thankfully the rain has now passed although it is grey above. We explore the villages of Oudeschild, de Cocksdorp, de Koog,  Den Hoorn and all stops in between today with a relaxed day island touring. No heavy bags to carry.

Day 02 over.

Its been a good day, plenty of miles behind us, some lovely views mostly of windmills and tulip fields. The distance was exactly 50 miles to the decimal point and the feeling now is one of tiredness but a good tiredness from working hard on the bikes in warm weather and light winds.  This place, Texel, is very friendly and peaceful. Tomorrow we explore the island.

Day 02 Preview

Good morning Holland. We are have landed in IJmuiden after a busy night on the King Seaways vessel. Friday night is particularly popular with Hens, stags and football team end of season tours so the boat was fairly jammed.

Thankfully we had booked a meal for 7.30 so gladly missed the bingo, half the Eastern European cabaret and the Magician.

Food was quite good. Lots of lovely fish starters, plenty of salads and pasta. Obligatory photo of the food below.

Not too much alcohol of course and an earlyish night around midnight.

The sea was flat as a pancake and it has been a very smooth crossing.

Today we head firstly for the station at Beverwijk to purchase train tickets for next Saturday Groningen to Leiden. Then today's cycling should be between 50 and 60 miles (80 to 95kms) heading to the coast at Egmond an Zee and taking the coastal path up to Den Helder then a teatime ferry to Texel, cycling on to tonights stay at Den Burg. May get there in time for the Cup Final at 18.00 Dutch time.

Jurgen Klopp was on the boat last night, close to tears and not posing for selfies. This is the best shot I could grab !

Unfortunately  I couldnt post this for three hours as my phone is locked to UK data for some reason. I'm on a campsite wifinear Schagen.